First we had ulpan (surprise surprise) for 3 1/2 hours, then a short break to come back to our apartments for lunch, and then we went out on a siyur/field trip, followed by a presentation/lecture. Normally, we do this (siyur) on a Tuesday, but for some reason we're doing it today.
The siyur and presentation were both led by Itai, a tour guide and madrich (guide) with Young Judaea. Ethan had him as his tour educator on Birthright in January and told us all how cool he was, before we even met Itai! Lucky him to already have a fan club. So we met at 2:45pm outside our building, and walked to Derech Hevron to catch the bus to Machane Yehuda. Why are we going back to the market? We were just there last week! Because today's topic is about Israeli Culture and Society; where better to learn about these things? The shuk/market is the best. Not only was his tour great (meaning that we all learned something) but his tour was mostly based on different cultures and the foods they have contributed to Israeli society: Iraqi, Indian, Turkish, and Yemenite. We stopped at a place in the market for each of these cultures, to learn a bit about when each of these groups immigrated to Israel (but don't ask me when, I'm not good with history) and sampled a typical food or snack from each location. The Iraqi location gave us koo-beh (I'm not even sure how to actually spell it) but that had meat inside so I passed; someone else in our group had seconds thanks to me and the other few veggie faces in the group.
The next location was an Indian restaurant, owned by a woman and her husband who opened the restaurant about 3 years ago (it's almost her restaurant's anniversary!) and it's ALL vegetarian! You bet I sampled there. It was a potato ball/cutlet with 2 dipping sauces - one spicy and one sweet. I dipped it in both, hey why not? Not only was it delicious, but she was also a sweetheart. She cooks every morning from 9-12 with fresh produce from the shuk, never processed or frozen foods, and the menu changes every single day based on what's available. She opens for lunch at 12 and serves food until its gone for the day, usually around 8 or 9 at night. I told her I'll be back there with some of the WUJS kids to try the WHOLE menu!
The next place we stopped at was a Turkish restaurant that served us borekas - one type with cheese and the other with chocolate. Both were absolutely fantastic BUT the chocolate ones tasted like the rugelach from Marzipan which is the highest type of rugelach on my list. So I went back for seconds. The last place we went to was Uzieli, the etrog medicine man who we met last week during our tiyul/trip with our ulpan classes. His shop represented the Yemenite culture and immigration to Israel. Since I lived through his presentation last week (including being sprayed in the face by etrog juice) and it was so crowded with our whole group inside, I decided to kind of take a step back from the group. I heard about his concoctions and what they were good for already, so I decided to check out the ceramics store next to Uzieli's shop. The entrance to the shop had a mosaic floor filled with tiles and colors. Inside the store, there were all kinds of ceramic products - for the kitchen (sponge holders, mugs, plates) and decorations for the home (items to hang from the wall, mirrors, candle holders) - and they were all stunning. I didn't even really look at the prices too much because I was just soaking in the beauty of the products. I know I can always go back. I probably will go back. I must go back!
When the tour at Uzieli was over, we had about a half an hour to conduct some interviews in the shuk. Each of us was paired with someone else in the group, to find people who were willing to answer some questions about themselves so that we could study Israeli culture and society. Ethan and I stuck together on this one and asked the clerk at an oil stand if he had some time for questions for this project. He said sure; he clearly wasn't busy and we were happy to go make friends. The questions began fairly superficially, asking where the person was from and how old he/she was. They progressed quite deeply into belief in G-d, whether or not one should marry Jewish, what their opinions on haredim (ultra orthodox) and secular populations were like, did they vote in the last election and for which party, etc. He answered all of our questions, we thanked him, and took a few more minutes in the shuk doing some personal shopping, before leaving to catch the bus back home.
We had a few minutes to put our things down and get ready for the presentation by Itai on culture/Israeli society, so I changed into my official Rangers gear (I don't have my jersey while I'm here, so Rangers t-shirt it is, and of course my red and white Saucony sneaks) so that as soon as the lecture was over, PJ and I could hop in a cab to get to the bar we wanted to go to (Lion's Den of course) for the game. I have to say the lecture and presentation and slideshow and video components were all really interesting in terms of subject matter, but quite honestly, I woke up in the morning with a one-track mind: Rangers. As soon as he's done talking, PJ and I scoot up to Derech Hevron for a cab. Takes us a few minutes, but we get a cab; he says it's 30 shekels (totally reasonable for the distance we are traveling, and at this point we are desperate, no time to wait for another). As soon as the cab lets us off at Kikar Tzion (Zion Square), we run down the hill to the Lion's Den so we can check the score. We were either hoping for a 0-0 exciting game or a 2-0 Rangers lead. We get there with 8:25 left in the 2nd period (ok so we made it in time to watch just about half the game) and discover it's at a 2-2 tie. Josh, who I've now seen a few times (including Shabbat at Megan's) is a student at the Conservative Yeshiva, and Steven, who is an HUC rabbinical student (also from Megan's Shabbat), both had interest in the game and told me they'd be there, so we joined them in front of one of the TVs. Greg, another HUC student was also there. PJ and I are both Long Islanders who are Rangers fans; turns out, Greg is another one! That's how we cool folk roll. Multiple goals, lots of yelling, arguments over players, teams, knowledge of hockey, history of Rangers players (yes, we brought up Esa Tikkanen, Tony Amonte, Jeff Beukeboom, and my ultimate fave - MIKE RICHTER!!!). It was a fun night.
Two beers and 30 minutes of hockey later, PJ and I walk out very disappointed in the 6-4 victory that lies in the hands of the worst team in all of professional sports - the NY Islanders. Crappy McCrap! The good news is, Burgers Bar is just up the road. This is just about the most references restaurant in Jerusalem so far, at least by my fellow WUJS friends. Anytime they mention it, I always say, "But I'm a vegetarian" and they follow with, "But they have portabella burgers and other veggie stuff, it's really good you should try it." Now's finally my chance! I get in there and order, and basically what they do is charge you for the main item (the mushroom in my case) but they customize your sandwich right in front of you, with toppings, sauces, spices, anything! (I can't compare Burgers Bar to a SUBWAY because I think some loyal Burgers Bar fans would have a bone to pick with me about it, BUT it is similar in that regard, pick your extras!) I have to say, very impressed with the portabella sandwich and I could easily go back there for a taste of something else. PJ, Steven, and I all hop on the bus back to our neighborhood. Another night Rangers, another night will be yours.
PJ is now officially the only one on the WUJS program to see the "real me" - that is - a crazy Rangers fan!!!
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