Once Erik was done sorting out his train ticket, we went downstairs in Termini to ride the subway (something we really haven't done much of on this trip because we have walked most places or taken cabs when we needed to), and it was so cheap! We hopped on the subway for 2 stops to get to the Colosseum, our starting point for the day. As soon as we got out of the subway we saw the Colosseum - it is pretty massive, to say the least. Unfortunately, it was already raining a little bit, but we did come prepared - raincoats and all. Some guy outside the Colosseum tried to convince us we should take an English speaking tour for such and such deal...yeah buddy we were not that interested. We knew that our ticket would provide entry to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Forum, and for 12 Euro, that was a pretty good deal. Three sights for the price of one. Plus, Adam did a report on the Colosseum when he was in 6th grade, so instead of renting audioguides, I told him he was mine for the day. Despite the rain, there were a lot of other tourists there, taking pictures just like us! After our walk around (and up to the 2nd level of) the Colosseum, we left toward Palatine Hill, not really knowing what we were looking at. We tried to pay attention to maps and read the Rick Steves book to help us out, but with the rain it was hard, and I wasn't that impressed. I think I was also losing patience being outside and cold in the rain. Our next stop was the Forum, which was kind of just next to Palatine Hill, and none of us really knew where it was but thankfully we stumbled upon it anyway. The Forum was very cool! It reminded me of some Jerusalem/Israel stuff because of how old the columns were, and what the Forum used to be - the center of life in Rome! It used to be the center for markets, socializing, politics, and religion. It was great to see the ruins and imagine what it looked like 2,000 years ago - hustle and bustle kind of a place. Now it's hustling and bustling with tourists stopping to take pictures of everything.
Our last stop in the area was to check out the Circus Maximus, the racetrack used back in the day. We kind of knew where it was, which direction it was in, so we started walking there. We stumbled upon it, knowing it would be HUGE and it turned out to be almost 7 football fields in length, but there was absolutely nothing there. NO one selling souvenirs (could have been the jackpot!) and nothing that seemed like it was very preserved from 2,000 years ago.
The guys sucked up the walk with me to the Great Synagogue so I could go find out what time Shabbat services would start. If I got to go, it would be great. If I didn't get to go, it wouldn't be a big deal. We walked a short while until we got there, and it was pretty dead. No one around to ask about Shabbat services, nor was it posted anywhere. After a few minutes, a dad and 2 teenagers came around the corner, and I asked in Italian if they spoke English. Turned out they were Swedish, so they didn't really speak Italian, but they understood me and the dad said that he spoke English. He had heard that services started around 5:30. At this point, it was probably around 5pm. Adam and Erik decided to split. I wanted to stay for the service. We agreed that after the service I would call them and see where they were to meet up - easy enough!
Well the doors finally opened and people came in from out of nowhere! Most went right in (you could tell they were the locals) and others, like me, were screened. Passports were a must. Leaving phones and cameras was a must. The lady who screened me asked me about the nature of my visit to Europe, to Rome, why I wanted to come to the synagogue, made sure that I was Jewish and entering for Shabbat services. It was tighter than Israeli security!
I was very happy to get inside, so happy that I didn't even realize, or think, that it was an Orthodox synagogue and I was not supposed to enter the bottom level of the sanctuary. I had to go up to the women's balcony (which, obviously, I LOVE, segregation, ha), but before the service started I just kind of took it all in. The decoration, the lights, the beauty, the setting, the scenery. It was stunning inside. I didn't have my camera with me, since I had to leave it at the security check, so I was kind of bummed not to be able to capture the inside of the synagogue.
I picked up a prayer book (a siddur) in hopes of being able to follow the service since it was in Hebrew. For the most part, I was able to follow. It was actually a little difficult to hear the cantor from the women's balcony, as there was no microphone, but there was some semblance to a men's choir that helped to amplify the sound and I could flip a few pages to figure out where we were. I wasn't too focused on being on the right page; I just wanted to soak it all in. This was my first Shabbat in 5 months (for the most part) that I wasn't in Israel. I became so used to celebrating and observing Shabbat in at least a small way (a dinner, a service, a meal of some kind) that it seemed natural for me to find a place to go on Friday night to be with the Jews! It was very comforting to feel at home.
When services were over, I left the synagogue going toward Campo di Fiori, where the guys were finishing up a drink. I met them at the bar, and the waitress gave us a recommendation on a restaurant to try for dinner, about a 5 minute walk from Campo. We found it with no problem (she also gave us turn by turn directions so that was quite helpful) and had yet another great meal. Foccaccia bread with rosemary, garlic, and oil. I got a fairly large Greek salad, and a plate of ravioli. I was still ravenous so I helped Erik finish his margherita pizza before we went back to the hotel for the night.
Another great day complete, and we're heading back north tomorrow to Florence and hopefully Pisa, for the day. Buonna notte!
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